Thursday, November 15, 2007

Costa Rica

(Our two week summer in a year of Winter)

This all happened a number of weeks ago now but anywho. Costa Rica is a very cool place where you could spend months and still have heaps left to do and see. We only had two weeks so we decided to pack a lot in the first week and take the second week easy to enjoy the sunshine and sand as soon we would be heading to a Canadian Winter.

We started with the most popular attraction in Costa Rica. We headed to La Fortuna which is near the Arenal volcano, the 4th most active in the world. It is called La Fortuna (translates to the fortunate) due to it being created after the eruption in 1962 which destroyed the villages on the other side of the volcano. Previously this area use to be agricultural land but is now fully cashing in on the tourism boom. The volcano stands ever-present.
It is here where we also discovered the abundance of hummingbirds in this country. Much to our delight on our second morning in country, we had breakfast with the view of an active volcano and hummingbirds feeding.This started my slight obsession with watching them and also photographing them (albeit poorly, as the limitations of a slightly older digital camera become obvious. Note how I blame the equipment). So fast, noisy (the wings flapping) and protective of the nectar.

We visited the volcano at night via the cheapest tour we could find. We soon realised that we were no longer in South America with South American affordability. Costa Rica is a popular getaway for people from the US and prices accordingly. The backpacker market barely exists.
After a short nature walk to see some toucans (at a distance), spider monkeys and coatis, we headed to the lava fields to view the action. The volcano is pretty much erupting most of the time but all it is is tumbling rocks and some smoke. But at night time this is amazing as the rocks are bright red and tumble down the side of the mountain, smashing up as they go. Again, my camera shows its age (although I doubt many cameras could capture this image). This is lava.A very cool experience that can't be captured in a photo. From the volcano we headed to the cloudforest. Costa Rica has some amazing rainforests, well pretty much the whole country is a rainforest. But these ones were designated as reserves. We visited Santa Elana Reserve which is actually owned by the local high school. The only difference I could determine between cloudforests and rainforests is that cloudforests have so much rain they are in the clouds. Again my camera showed its limitations with a few exceptions.Some big trees.And of course, more hummingbirds.Sometimes they sat still.
Most of the time it is a blur. I have lots more but will save you from them.

From the forest to the coffee farms. We did a tour with the local coffee co-operative. This included seeing everything from farm to the packet. Costa Ricans are known for their coffee and they also consume a fair amount on their own, of course all the non-export grade stuff. The co-op focuses on sustainable farming unlike the large private companies that mass produce. An interesting lesson.Coffee beans on the tree. Red ones are ripe and are hand picked.
The progression of the bean from left to right. Raw, peeled/washed/sundried, peeled again and roasted.

The Beach. It had been calling us for a long time. We basically spent 5 months without seeing the ocean and when we did in Peru, it was far too cold to even consider a swim. The beaches on the Pacific coast in Costa Rica aren't picture perfect white-sand but were great for us. Apparently the Carribean side has better beaches but it was too far away. Anyway, we came to Playa del Cocos (the beach) to do some diving. The top 5 metres is warm due to the sun but anything under that is freezing cold due to the underwater currents and we also had terrible visibility due to torrential rain the country has had over the last month. However, all this aside we saw what we came for. MANTA RAYS!!!!! About 6 circled around on our second day of diving. Silent and massive. Wing spans of 5-6 metres. Simply amazing creatures.

Other than that, we simply enjoyed hanging around in the warmth. A bit of sun-baking, a bit of walking, a bit of laying around and of course, nature watching. Costa rica is chock full of crazy critters. We had howler monkeys in the trees next to our accomodation. Also squirrels fighting in the trees, iguanas eating spines off cactuses and the obligatory hummingbirds. Below is a howler monkey with a baby on her back making a dash to the next tree.
Some colourful sunsets. And a final goodbye to the beach, the warmth, the ocean and Latin America in general. Here comes Canada and a whole heap of coldness. Till then.