Salares De Uyuni

This is largely a photographic entry. We did a four day tour of the South-West Bolivian altiplano, including the last day on the Salares de Uyuni (Salt Plains). We left from Tupiza and were to arrive in Uyuni 4 days later. We would reach altitudes above 5000m asl, have some very cold nights, spend up to 12 hours a day in the back of the Landcruiser but also see some really cool and varied sceneries. The first day started badly with our first car overheating within 1 hour of leaving town. We rolled back to town and changed cars and were only 3 hours late.But still made it to a really nice spot for lunch

Just to show it was cold, all the creeks freeze over.

Although the Llamas don't mind.

Bella standing at 4855m asl with a lagoon in the background. These freeze over too, at least partly.

Another picturesque spot for lunch on day 2.

Our accomodation was very basic, (ie no showers) so this was my bath for the 4 days in a thermal spring.Another lagoon, but with a volcano in the background. The other side of it is Chile.Our consistent tardiness in timing finally paid off with a great sunset at some sulfuric geysers.Flamingoes on a partially frozen lagoon.Yes, it´s a flamingo.

Arbol de Piedro (Stone Tree) was a Salvador Dali inspiration.We finally made it to the salt plains, and to a cactus filled island in the middle of it.More cactuses.More salt,and more salt.

Wild West of Bolivia

A bus ride 7 hours north of Salta and we were at the Bolivian border. A desert with cities on either side of the border. We walked over the border. It was as expected people running everywhere, people waiting everywhere and the one armed immigration official working at a steady pace, despite the massive queue, with his other arm occupied with a cigarette. We decided we didn't want to stay at the dodgy border town so we caught the train to Tupiza.


Tupiza is the 'Wild West' of Bolivia. There may as well be tumbleweeds rolling up the main street. The scenery surrounding could be out of 'Young Guns' or any Hollywood western movie, or equally a Guns'n'Roses film clip with Slash shredding in front of a church with the red rocky mountains in the background. Being inspired we decided to take a horse ride for a couple of hours. 5 minutes out of town and it felt like we were completely alone. We rode/walked around for about 3 hours. This confirmed that I still don't know how to ride a horse and that neither does my backside.
Our guide, Bella and Alex (from Salta) who seems to be following us.Mmmm, still not bored of cactuses.Straight out of Indiana Jones (sorry about the angle, couldn't be bothered re-uploading on Bolivian internet).

More nature, more contrasts.

We arrived in Salta to cold weather. Not the sun soaked plazas, reading books that we had been told by other travellers. We decided that didn't matter because we were here to see the amazing landscapes around this area, not just the town itself.



So, we ended up hiring a car with 3 other guys. Alex (English) who we had sort of organised this with in Mendoza, Daniel (Swiss) who is the experienced car renter and Lars (Sweedish).


We hired a car for 2 days and were heading north. It all started badly with Daniel crashing into a cab within the first 10 minutes while leaving the city. Crashing in the city is notoriously easy as there appears to be no rules, no give way signs and very few traffic lights. Luckily, the cabbie didn´t car. Rather then let it ruin our trip, we headed off.


The scenery is again amazing and so varied. We headed off into the desert landscapes. With amazing changes in soil colour and yes, cactuses. Another first.



We found a really cool little town called Purnamarca. A cross between a local village and a growing tourism town. A very beautiful spot. We ended up spending the night in another town called Tilcara. Again, small and set at the bottom of the surrounding mountains. Very cool place to wake up.
From the streets of Purnamarca

Tilcara down below.

The two days ended up very worthwhile. The only way to get out and see the scenery. Much better than a tour due to the freedom allowed and no two hour stopover at random places. Daniel ended up claiming responsibility for the crash (he was only turning the wrong way up a one way street) and he paid for the damage himself (which wasn't that much). He did hire the car in his name and leave his credit card details, so he didn't have much choice.

Next step, to Bolivia.

Finally some nature....

South America is known as a land of contrasts. We can now say we have experienced this. Within a week, we went from the sub-tropical Iguazu Falls, skipped through Rosario with some minor incidents, and arrived at Mendoza at the base of the snow capped Andes. Mendoza just also happens to be the nation's largest wine producing region and we found a really comfortable and enjoyable hostel, so we ended up staying here for a week.


After the initial frustration of more cloudy weather for a couple of days, we were blessed with a perfect day on our third day. So we hit the wineries. We decided upon the bikes and wine option. So we caught a local bus a bit out of town, hired some bikes and with a map in hand we were off to find some wineries. Wine tourism is a bit of a new thing here, but it has caught on and is growing. We only made it to 3 wineries and a wine museum but it was a great day. Some old wineries from the late 1800´s and some newer ones. We were just happy to be outside in the sunshine. Most of the grapes grown are Malbec, although they do also have the Cab Sav and Merlots. But they also have some specialties. I confirmed that I quite enjoy a Syrah and now also like Tempranillo, a grape from Spain. Muy bueno!!


Next on our agenda was to get up into the Andes. After trying to work out if we could do it on our own via public transport, but giving up due to South America difficulties, we decided to take a bus tour right up to the Chilean border to see a natural stone bridge called the Punta del Inca. We were on the bus before dawn (7:30am) and were finally off to the Andes. It was really great to get up close to the mountains and see the aridness of this area. Although it is a wine producing region, it doesn't rain much and pretty much relies on the snow run-off through irrigation channels. We also managed to see our first condor and some Llama/Alpaca creatures (I can't tell the difference). It started snowing at about 2400m which is were the snow line pretty much began as well. We were driving through the snow for about 30 minutes before we made it to the bridge.
I have seen far too many sun rises in this country. This is on the way up. I think this is our first photo together in South America.

The Andes

Punta del Inca

On the way back, we stopped at the local ski resort for 2 hours. I'm not sure what we were expected to do, but we just sort of walked around for a bit and enjoyed being snowed on. This was Bella's first snow experience, ever. Apart for some snow on the side of the road near Bateman´s Bay. Needless to say she was excited.

After our two hour stop at the ski resort, we then proceeded down the mountain a bit to have a 2 hour lunch stop. This was about 3:30pm. So yes, this tour did have its share of South American idiosynchrocies, and confirmed why we preferred not to do these. None the less, it still allowed to see some really good stuff.


At the end of the week we had a cold snap, that is the whole of South America had a cold snap. It actually snowed in the city of Mendoza, which it hasn´t done for as long as our lovely old cleaning lady could remember. It also snowed in Buenos Aires, which is hasn't done since 1918. So yes, our run of great weather continues. But we moved on, and walked to the bus station in the snow, heading for Salta, the supposedly warm Northwest.