Well we didn't quite manage to swing the white christmas in London. We got some snow before and after, but the 25th of December was actually a pleasant day of about 4 degrees and clear skies. I think we even managed some sunshine. This was quite lucky, as there is no public transport in London on Christmas Day, and we had a 45 minute walk to get to our Christmas lunch/dinner/extended eating and drinking session.
We started the day with phonecalls home, presents to unwrap and a two course breakfast. We then rugged up and trundled off to Tessa & Ben's place for an orphan Christmas. There were about 8 aussies celebrating together. There was plenty of food and drink, but it still doesn't feel like Christmas to me without the hot weather.
Boxing Day came and instead of settling down to another round of eating and a game of cricket, we headed to the airport for 6 days in Spain, in an attempt to escape the Winter. There was also other incentives including food, culture and forcing ourselves to drag some spanish out of a corner of our minds.
We arrived to a pleasant 15 degrees and sunshine. It was great. We fly into Seville in southern Spain. A city where orange trees line the streets and are in all the parks. We eventually succumbed to temptation and discovered why the oranges are left in the trees. Whilst in a park by ourselves we snatched a couple and peeled away. It was possibly the most sour thing I have ever tasted.
Seville is a big bull fighting city with one of the oldest 'Plaza de Toros' in Spain. The season runs through the Summer with fights on every weekend. I was initially wondering how much they could tell you about a ring of dirt that some people and a bull run around in. But we learned that bullfighting is a significant part of the Spanish culture and remains strongly supported. The stadium is sold out with tickets ranging from 20 to 130 euros. For your 130 euros you get the same brick seat, but you are seated in the shade and are nice and close to the action. Bullfighting actually consists of 6 people against 1 bull and it lasts around 30 minutes. The matador first, then 2 men on horses with spears, then 3 men with swords and finally the matador again but with a sword. At the end of each fight the bull is killed by the matador with a sword through the back of its neck and into the heart. There are usually 6 bulls for each day. Afterwards, all of the tapas bars and restaurants advertise who is serving the day's meat.
The matador is judged by both the crowd and the royal box. A matador has not been awarded the maximum 3 trophies in this ring for around 70 years. It is obviously still a violent sport by today's standard but I thought it was great that something so old remains such a strong part of today's culture. Perhaps they have a greater understanding of where the food on the plate comes from, rather than browsing supermarket shelves or maybe it's just the more relaxed European outlook on life.
Speaking of relaxing. The spanish sure do know how to take it easy, have a seat in the sun and watch the world go by. And I did too.
The only building to compete with the city's cathedral is the royal palace, called the Alcazar. The Alcazar was established as a Muslim fortress in 913. However, Southern Spain was fought over during the crusades sometime between the 12th and 15th centuries and eventually became Christian ruled. But rather than knocking it down, they continued to add to it. As a result it is a mishmash of both Moorish and Christian influences.
Regardless of who built it, it is most impressive and chock full of history. Seville was the administrative capital for the exploration of the Americas. The altar below contains possible the first painting of native american indians. This altar is where Magellen and Elcano prayed before setting out to sail around the world in 1519.
The food was a whole new, amazing cultural experience too. It's all about tapas. Both lunch and dinner start with a drink before you even think about food. Still, at 1 euro for about a pot of beer, it's quite easy to do. Then it's time for food. Lots of meats, of vary ages and types. The most expensive being Jamon Serrano, which is cured ham from pigs that live in the mountains and double their weight in six months, eating nothing but acorns. Goat's cheese, eggy quiche things, calamari, and morsels of pork/chicken en salsa. But as much as it is the food, it's also the atmosphere. The place isn't any good unless you are standing shoulder to shoulder and people are reaching over you to place the order. Keeping a tab, with chalk, on the bar in front of you. And you don't just eat at one place, choose at least three or four, so you get to wander around and try things.
There were also plenty of moments of ahhh, that's were the South Americans got it from. The plazas and their extensive tile work are a great reason to wander from one corner of the city to the other.
For the last 2 days we decided to head to the coast to have a look at the city of Cadiz. Possibly one of the oldest cities in Europe. It is also the port from which Columbus sailed on some of his voyages to the Americas.
We scored some rain, but we also got some sunshine. However, the wind was constant. It was still nice to be beside the seaside. Apparently the beach above is packed during the Summer, though there was barely a sole on it this day.
So, a good dose of Spain we had, but I still think we need to come back in Summer when the place would have a completely different feel and pulse.
Here are some more photos.
