Our initiation to travel in Bolivia. It's no Argentina.

Now for a writing entry.

When we made it back to Uyuni after the salt plains, we had thought that our time in the Landcruiser was over. We had to go to the ATM in Uyuni (because there was no ATM in Tupiza) to get money out to pay for the tour. While we were waiting for the ATM to start working, we started talking to some tourists. Whereupon we discovered that while we were away, the miner's union had decided to start a protest over something. This somehow translates in Bolovia to meaning there are blockades on all the major roads and hence no buses running. This particular tourist just managed to secure a seat on a bus to La Paz in 3 days time.We confirmed these rumours to be true-ish (truth is quite hard to find in Bolivia). This threw our plans into a spin, as we were planning on heading to Potosi either that night or the next day. But with a whole heap of tourists stuck in this town, we weren't sure when we could get a bus or even if we could get a room for the night. Our back-up plan was for us to go back to Tupiza with our tour guides. It was a free lift, apparently only 4 hours away and we thought it would be less chaotic in Tupiza. So off we went, back to Tupiza.

It all started ok. A few more random stops in town for no apparent reason and we were off. Although we weren't sure if the road would be blocked. About an hour out of town and we stop at a few houses. Our guides ask a few questions and seem to get a satisfactory answer so we push on. About a 1/2 hour later and it is starting to get dark. Luis (or driver) turns the headlights on and they work for about 15 minutes. All of a sudden we hit one too many bumps in the dirt road and both of the headlights stop working. We come to a stop. The sun is down but there is still some light. Luis begins his mechanical skills that we had observed on the salt plains tour. He starts hitting everything from the dashboard to the headlights themselves. Surprisingly nothing seems to work. He gets a little more technical and has a look at some fuses and other things. Eventually he gives up and we continue driving with what little light we have (basically none). We hit just the right number of bumps in the road and the headlights return, for all of a minute before they disappear again. We stop again. More thumping, bashing, etc....By now it's completely dark, we are in the middle of nowhere, we're still at 3500m in a desert so it is freaking cold, Bella is feeling average from 4 days in a car and I am feeling not so good after too much sun and not enough water on the salt plains.

Eventually Luis is back in the car and we push on again. This time with every conceivable idea, idiotic or not. We drive along with the window down and our tiny torch out the window. This lasts until the batteries die which , thankfully, isn't long. We have spares but are not telling him. Next, is driving using the hazard lights. The intermitant flashes and annoying sound does not do well for my headache. We pursue with this method for longer then you would think would be possible. We also tried driving without any lights. Eventually sanity pervails and we stop again. A few cars go by but eventually one stops. He has a look under the hood but again, to no success. He does however agree to let us follow him to the nearby town. This is the most logical Bolivian solution i have seen yet. We make it to the town about 9 pm and decide to stay the night. 4 hours since we left Uyuni.

The next morning we wake up about 7pm to a frozen toilet and column of ice between the tap spout and the sink. But also to no car. We panic slightly, but figure it should be easy enough to find a lift, whether it is a bus or other returning tour group. We get our bags ready and just as we walk out the door and there is Luis and the car, and about 6 other people who are all going to cram into the car for the trip to Tupiza. Making 9 in total in the Landcruiser we head off. This drive was actually quite enjoyable with more of the Wild West scenery that this area is famous for. We made it into Tupiza about 11.30am completely exhausted and crashed into a hostel for a shower (my first in 5 days) and a sleep. The 4 hours Luis had originally promised us had turned into a 8 hour marathon over two days.

Our next step was to find out what was going on with these road blockages and if we could make it to Potosi. The next day we go to the bus stand and after a number of blunt 'no's' we find one bus company who is running a service at 10am the next day. Sceptical but satisfied, we buy tickets. We turn up the next morning at 9am (as we were asked to) and begin to wait. Just before 10am the bus office gets really busy, then really quiet. We become sceptical and tried to find out what is going on. Turns out our bus was now leaving from 12pm from the 'tranca'. After asking a few people we finally determine this is the city boundary. Our bags are in the ticket office, with everybody elses, and we ask about them. We are assured a number of times they are being taken together to the bus. So we accept this and head of to the city boundary in a taxi. We wander about aimless, get some conflicting information, but eventually determine it is 2km down the road past all the trucks. It is here we determined the road blocks were not governmental but were the trucker's union. We were running short on time, but managed to make the bus at 12pm. When we got there, the bus driver drove a further 1.5km down the road, while we had to walk. Then had spoke some very fast spanish, with something about gasolina and rode off back to town on a bicycle while we all waited at the bus. About 1.5hrs laterhe returned. We boarded the bus and we were off. At this stage we were also worried about our bags but the bus driver looked a bit too preoccupied to bother him with our broken spanish. We made it about 30 minutes up the road where we stopped again. After waited for about 10 minutes a ute with a 40 gallon drum of petrol turns up. Similar to Fiji, all the men get off the bus to help load it onto the bus. 4 people do the work while the rest stand around and watch. Apart from that it was a pretty standard 8 hour bus trip along mostly a dirt and bumpy road in a cramped Bolivian bus, not the Argentinian comfort we were used too. We arrived in Potosi about 9.30pm after getting to the bus stand at Tupiza at 9am.

After spending 8 hours thinking about, our fears were confirmed when we arrived in Potosi and our bags were not. The bus driver told us to come back at 4pm tomorrow and they will be here. So a little concerned but lacking any alternatives we decide to head off to our hostel. We relent to one of the taxis who had been hassling us for a ride. As we are getting in another girl asks if we are going to a hostel and if she can get a lift. Without thinking much of it we accept. As we go around a nearby corner a man hits the back of the car. We stop and he asks for the driver's licence as he is a police officer. He then jumps in the car and the taxi takes off again. He says that he is a police officer, shows us a dodgy looking ID, and asks to see our passports. I am sceptical about handing anything over. The girl next to us agrees willing. I eventually lie and say they are in our other bags. He keeps on pushing the matter but we continue not to give him anything in our broken spanish. Finally a language barrier in our favour with me and Bella being able to talk. Finally he gives up on passports and then moves onto money. Again the girl next to me agrees. I am reluctant but hand over 60 Bolivianos (10 aussie) as luckily it is all i had in my wallet. He sniffs and starts asking about drugs and hands it back. He then begins on asking for drugs, US dollars, Euros and going back to the passports again. All this while we're driving around a town we don't know. He starts becoming more agitated as he is getting nothing out of us. We persistently ask to be taken to the police station, our hostel or just stop the cab. Eventually they agree to the station. We start heading up some dark streets and eventually the car stops. The excuse offered is we are out of gas. I tell bella to get out but the door is jammed. The 'policeman' then reaches over and opens the door for us. We get out and run for a bit, but they are not following us. We walk as to not arouse more attention to two gringos at night in this area. Go down some stairs, around a corner and find some mothers with their kids. We ask if there is a taxi stand nearby. There is and we follow them to it. Sceptical about getting in a cab again, an old guy in a newish car turns up. We ask if he knows the hostel and get in. Thankfully he drops us at the door. We get a room and crash again, completely exhausted again. But with nothing missing, except our packs from the bus. Thankfully they turn up the next day too with a bit more patience and waiting.

Bolivian tavel is living up to its reputation.

Salares De Uyuni

This is largely a photographic entry. We did a four day tour of the South-West Bolivian altiplano, including the last day on the Salares de Uyuni (Salt Plains). We left from Tupiza and were to arrive in Uyuni 4 days later. We would reach altitudes above 5000m asl, have some very cold nights, spend up to 12 hours a day in the back of the Landcruiser but also see some really cool and varied sceneries. The first day started badly with our first car overheating within 1 hour of leaving town. We rolled back to town and changed cars and were only 3 hours late.But still made it to a really nice spot for lunch

Just to show it was cold, all the creeks freeze over.

Although the Llamas don't mind.

Bella standing at 4855m asl with a lagoon in the background. These freeze over too, at least partly.

Another picturesque spot for lunch on day 2.

Our accomodation was very basic, (ie no showers) so this was my bath for the 4 days in a thermal spring.Another lagoon, but with a volcano in the background. The other side of it is Chile.Our consistent tardiness in timing finally paid off with a great sunset at some sulfuric geysers.Flamingoes on a partially frozen lagoon.Yes, it´s a flamingo.

Arbol de Piedro (Stone Tree) was a Salvador Dali inspiration.We finally made it to the salt plains, and to a cactus filled island in the middle of it.More cactuses.More salt,and more salt.

Wild West of Bolivia

A bus ride 7 hours north of Salta and we were at the Bolivian border. A desert with cities on either side of the border. We walked over the border. It was as expected people running everywhere, people waiting everywhere and the one armed immigration official working at a steady pace, despite the massive queue, with his other arm occupied with a cigarette. We decided we didn't want to stay at the dodgy border town so we caught the train to Tupiza.


Tupiza is the 'Wild West' of Bolivia. There may as well be tumbleweeds rolling up the main street. The scenery surrounding could be out of 'Young Guns' or any Hollywood western movie, or equally a Guns'n'Roses film clip with Slash shredding in front of a church with the red rocky mountains in the background. Being inspired we decided to take a horse ride for a couple of hours. 5 minutes out of town and it felt like we were completely alone. We rode/walked around for about 3 hours. This confirmed that I still don't know how to ride a horse and that neither does my backside.
Our guide, Bella and Alex (from Salta) who seems to be following us.Mmmm, still not bored of cactuses.Straight out of Indiana Jones (sorry about the angle, couldn't be bothered re-uploading on Bolivian internet).

More nature, more contrasts.

We arrived in Salta to cold weather. Not the sun soaked plazas, reading books that we had been told by other travellers. We decided that didn't matter because we were here to see the amazing landscapes around this area, not just the town itself.



So, we ended up hiring a car with 3 other guys. Alex (English) who we had sort of organised this with in Mendoza, Daniel (Swiss) who is the experienced car renter and Lars (Sweedish).


We hired a car for 2 days and were heading north. It all started badly with Daniel crashing into a cab within the first 10 minutes while leaving the city. Crashing in the city is notoriously easy as there appears to be no rules, no give way signs and very few traffic lights. Luckily, the cabbie didn´t car. Rather then let it ruin our trip, we headed off.


The scenery is again amazing and so varied. We headed off into the desert landscapes. With amazing changes in soil colour and yes, cactuses. Another first.



We found a really cool little town called Purnamarca. A cross between a local village and a growing tourism town. A very beautiful spot. We ended up spending the night in another town called Tilcara. Again, small and set at the bottom of the surrounding mountains. Very cool place to wake up.
From the streets of Purnamarca

Tilcara down below.

The two days ended up very worthwhile. The only way to get out and see the scenery. Much better than a tour due to the freedom allowed and no two hour stopover at random places. Daniel ended up claiming responsibility for the crash (he was only turning the wrong way up a one way street) and he paid for the damage himself (which wasn't that much). He did hire the car in his name and leave his credit card details, so he didn't have much choice.

Next step, to Bolivia.

Finally some nature....

South America is known as a land of contrasts. We can now say we have experienced this. Within a week, we went from the sub-tropical Iguazu Falls, skipped through Rosario with some minor incidents, and arrived at Mendoza at the base of the snow capped Andes. Mendoza just also happens to be the nation's largest wine producing region and we found a really comfortable and enjoyable hostel, so we ended up staying here for a week.


After the initial frustration of more cloudy weather for a couple of days, we were blessed with a perfect day on our third day. So we hit the wineries. We decided upon the bikes and wine option. So we caught a local bus a bit out of town, hired some bikes and with a map in hand we were off to find some wineries. Wine tourism is a bit of a new thing here, but it has caught on and is growing. We only made it to 3 wineries and a wine museum but it was a great day. Some old wineries from the late 1800´s and some newer ones. We were just happy to be outside in the sunshine. Most of the grapes grown are Malbec, although they do also have the Cab Sav and Merlots. But they also have some specialties. I confirmed that I quite enjoy a Syrah and now also like Tempranillo, a grape from Spain. Muy bueno!!


Next on our agenda was to get up into the Andes. After trying to work out if we could do it on our own via public transport, but giving up due to South America difficulties, we decided to take a bus tour right up to the Chilean border to see a natural stone bridge called the Punta del Inca. We were on the bus before dawn (7:30am) and were finally off to the Andes. It was really great to get up close to the mountains and see the aridness of this area. Although it is a wine producing region, it doesn't rain much and pretty much relies on the snow run-off through irrigation channels. We also managed to see our first condor and some Llama/Alpaca creatures (I can't tell the difference). It started snowing at about 2400m which is were the snow line pretty much began as well. We were driving through the snow for about 30 minutes before we made it to the bridge.
I have seen far too many sun rises in this country. This is on the way up. I think this is our first photo together in South America.

The Andes

Punta del Inca

On the way back, we stopped at the local ski resort for 2 hours. I'm not sure what we were expected to do, but we just sort of walked around for a bit and enjoyed being snowed on. This was Bella's first snow experience, ever. Apart for some snow on the side of the road near Bateman´s Bay. Needless to say she was excited.

After our two hour stop at the ski resort, we then proceeded down the mountain a bit to have a 2 hour lunch stop. This was about 3:30pm. So yes, this tour did have its share of South American idiosynchrocies, and confirmed why we preferred not to do these. None the less, it still allowed to see some really good stuff.


At the end of the week we had a cold snap, that is the whole of South America had a cold snap. It actually snowed in the city of Mendoza, which it hasn´t done for as long as our lovely old cleaning lady could remember. It also snowed in Buenos Aires, which is hasn't done since 1918. So yes, our run of great weather continues. But we moved on, and walked to the bus station in the snow, heading for Salta, the supposedly warm Northwest.

Rosario. (The city that didn't like us)

Rosario will always be most memorable for being the place where we spent 8 hours hanging out at the bust station, at the tail end of which my day pack got stolen. But let me start at the beginning....

After Iguazu, we decided to head to the city of Rosario. Why? No real reason, just that it was another city we'd heard about that was a reasonable bus trip distance from Iguazu, with a bus service departing at a convenient hour. So several reasons really, just none specifically relating to why this city might be a good place to visit.

We spent the first two days just wandering around the city. Nothing too exciting to see or do, except for the Monumento de los Banderas (monument to the flag), which we discovered on the first day and liked, but didn't have the camera, so we went back the next day to get some pics.

We also had our first Che Guevara encounter. You can find the building where he lived when first born. It has a sign out the front that tells you so. And that's all. Thrilling, Here is a picture of Mick, excited as he was.

On the first night, although obviously a big and well-serviced city, it managed to keep all its supermarkets hidden from us so that we spent an hour or more walking around looking for one - frustration no. 1.

On the second night, on the advice of the hostel notice board, we went to check out a classical guitar performance at a cafe. Dinner options transpired to be a range of over-priced toasted sandwhiches, but we thought "hell, the entertaiment's free, we may as well stay and make do". Half way through eating, still waiting for the music to start, we were informed that if we wanted to stay to watch the music, we had to pay $12 each. Otherwise, could we please hurry up and finish and leave (well that's probably not exactly what she said in spanish, but the message was clear enough). How hard is it to put a sign out the front?? Of course, we just accepted that we had to pay, seeing as by that stage the prospect of enjoying the music was the only thing left to save the night. In the end, the music was alright, but a short performance, and the cafe didn't have a good atmosphere, the few other people there were obviously all just friends of the performers. And it was once of our most expensive dinners so far on the whole trip. Frustration no. 2.

Had reasonably sunny weather these first two days, so by the third we were ready to jump on a bus and check out the rather popular river beaches to the north of the city. They looked nice in the tourist publicity photos. Of course, our luck held and this day dawned cloudy and cold. We stubbornly got all ready to go anyway and were literally standing at the bus stop where we made one last useless survey of the rapidly worsening sky and admitted defeat. Spent the rest of the day hanging around the hostel. At least I can say I made something of the time by learning to play chess. Frustration no 3.

On both days, we'd tried to go out for a coffee in one of the many numerous nice cafes we'd noticed whilst walking around at other times. On both occasions, similar to the supermarket incident, the city managed to hide them away when we actually wanted to find them, so we'd walk for half an hour and end up in a fairly uninspiring establishment with stale croissants. Frustration no. 4.

We'd pretty much decided by that stage Rosario wasn't going to work for us, and decided to leave the next day. On the last night we headed out to a jazz bar, thinking we might get one good experience out of this city yet. And it wasn't too bad, but it was far from great. The 'trio' advertised turned out to be a guy playing classical jazz guitar, mostly with one other guy on bass, and a few songs with a guy singing which were more tango in style. Not really the kind of jazz we're used to. This headlining act was followed by an unadvertised act consisting of another guy on acoustic guitar, a double bass and a female singer who was, quite frankly, awful. She sounded like a farcical Barbara Streisand impersonation, and the tight, low cut black number on middle-aged figure didn't help. The locals seemed to love her.

So the next morning it was with some relief that we headed to the bus station, which was a fair way out of the town centre, only to discover that all services to the place we wanted to go, Mendoza, were not until 7 or 8 that night. Long storey short, we spent a very boring, tedious day killing time at the bus station. At around 5.30 we headed into a phone/internet place to do our second web session for the day. We were at a computer right by the door, it was really busy, and Mick's mum ended up calling so I answered the mobile and after handing over the phone to Mick I realised that my day pack had disappeared. It was sitting right by my leg, but somebody obviously saw me momentarily distracted by the phone, the quick exit straight out the door and took their opportunity. It could only have been a few minutes afterward that I noticed, so Mick immediately had a look around, but they'd successfully disappeared. Luckily, there was a police station at the terminal, so I was able, using my limited spanish, to explain what had happened and get a report out of them in time to still catch our 8pm bus. It took a while, but there was plenty of action to keep Mick entertained while he waited - we don't know what exactly went down, but they caught some poor smuck doing something and brought him in. He made the mistake of hitting the female officer who first caught him. Once safely in the police rooms, the male officers clearly felt they needed to even the score.

The good news is there was really nothing valuable in the back pack. Let me give a taste of the thief's spoils:

- 1 rather weighty hardback volume of Hemingway classics, taken form the hostel we left only that morning after much deliberation as to whether it was worth carrying around. Fortunately, in order to fit in my pack, many more important items had been removed and were safely in Mick's instead, including the Lonely Planet and our recently acquired and much loved thermos.

- 1 grapefruit

- 1 bottle of tap water

- half a packet of crackers

- a mate, the special cup used to drink the herbal drink that everyone lives on here, and a packet of the herbal stuff. We bought it in a mood of "let's do as the locals do", but we'd only managed to use it twice and can't say we've missed it yet. They're a dime a dozen, I'm fairly certain the theif would already possess one if not many.

Obviously there were a few items that were of more importance to me, made more annoying by their lack of value to the theif - spanish course notes and phrasebook, for instance, as well as my personal diary, which I'd been really enjoying putting together and had saved some good stuff in. I've already replaced it and started again, but that's 6 weeks worth of memorabilia gone.

So I can tell you it was with some relief that we finally boarded our bus that night and said goodbye to Rosario.

Cataratas del Iguazu (Iguazu Falls)

Our first fall, not really knowing what was awaiting us.

The real thing.

Salto Bossetti (Bossetti Fall) from the top and the bottom.

Salto San Martin (above and below), the most awesome part of this part of the falls.

From over 1km wide at the top, this fast flowing little river is all that flows out.

Garganta Del Diablo

(The Devil´s Throat)

What you see as you approach. The catwalks take you right out to where it happens. Below shows the mist that is created.

Hard to fit in due to how close you get, but this is the second part of the falls (above and below, with above on the right), and is by far the most fiercesome part.

The falls are split into two parts. The first part (the one with San Martin) has catwalks up the top and down below. There is also a island in the middle of the falls that you can explore (this is the bit in the San Martin pictures with the catwalk on the other side). Garganta del Diablo is the second part. You can only see this one from the top. They are a reasonable distance apart and there is a small train to carry people around the park. All in all, amazing. We saw most of it in one day but came back for a second day just because.

One happy and thoroughly impressed camper.